Mile 754.0 RBD — 747.5 Back Channel of Brandywine Island
The top end of Brandywine opens up like a yawning great blue heron, but instead of big fish its mouth is cluttered by a series of dikes (Corona Bar Dikes) and a ragged cluster of hardwood islands. Well worth the diversion if you have the time for another long back channel exploration with a possible portage over a low bridge halfway down it length.
There are 13 miles in back channel and 6.5 miles in main channel. Twice the distance and probably three times the duress (and certainly four times the experience!) After leaving Dean Island on the main channel stay river right and look for the obvious openings between the stubby islands at RBD 754, and enter in between any of them. As always you can count on good water if there is any flow going in. But know beforehand that Brandywine is one of those rare Chutes that loses all flow in its last four miles (due to deepening and widening), to regain some partial flow in its last two miles with the entrance of a separate lower back channel.
The channel winds and twists in a primarily northwesterly direction before rounding a gentle westerly curve tending southerly. Several miles down the trees open up river left to expose nearby North Lake. As the channel becomes southerly you will notice a lodge river right and some other dwellings and a single truss concrete bridge. This is part of Brandywine Hunting Club. WARNING: Low Bridge with possible portage 4.5 miles down Brandywine Chute. Stop and scout to decide the best route. At medium water strong flow under this bridge with possible driftwood blockage. At high water there is possibly hazardous fast water flow. I have zipped under this bridge with 3 feet of clearance wondering what it would be like with 2 feet, or 1 foot... Well, you’d have to portage. Scary thought. To attempt passage with only one foot or two feet of clearance would result in certain capsize. Unless you are absolutely sure of enough opening stop first and inspect!
Below the bridge the channel narrows and tumbles between some small islands over some sand/gravel shoals with quickening current. This fast ride continues for another mile or so almost due south below the bridge before the bottom drops out (meaning the bottom of the channel) and widens, and the current slows and then seems to die completely, now running southeasterly. Except at flood stage, this four mile section becomes a virtual flat water lake due to the deep and wide channel which includes the edges of an extensive flooded forest river left. There is a parallel lake not far into the woods called South Lake which makes this an extensive wetlands area. Enjoy the peaceful setting and the tranquility of the scenery, the birds, the fish, and the amphibians. The water typically clears and becomes greenish and as result you might see the backs of the gar as they swim and feed, maybe a catfish, maybe others. If a fish jumps out of the water, over your canoe, or into your canoe, it’s probably one of those Asian carp.
The flat water ends at mile 10.5 in a southerly turn with the entrance of a flowing opening LBD where a short cut back to the main channel enters river left and adds some water flow. The last mile and a half of Brandywine are an enjoyable curvy channel dotted with small islands and good flow, and quickly you will be flushed back out into the main channel with a stunning downstream view over the face of the big river of the pyramid and downtown Memphis! You might be surprised to see the city already, but don’t worry, you are still ten miles away from downtown. Due to some cutoffs made 100 years after America’s Independence, the river here makes a long straight shot into the city, through aptly named Centennial Cutoff.
Main Channel: If you're staying main channel along Brandywine Island stay with the best flow along island in between buoy lines reds (river left) and greens (river right). Fast water stays middle channel towards Shelby Forest, and then returns river right towards bottom of Brandywine Island. See http://goo.gl/maps/YSBFJ This line shows the fastest route main channel. Adjust as necessary for tow traffic, wind, storms and water level!
Main Channel (17.5 miles): follow the fastest water down the middle of the river sliding gently towards right bank down to the Loosahatchie Bar then slowly crossing back over to Mud Island for final approach into the Harbor. Advantages: you’ll get there faster with less paddling, and you won’t have to worry about any surprises like “is the water high enough to get over that dike?” or “Is that channel going to be blocked by driftwood?”
River Right behind Redman, and Loosahatchie (19.7 miles): Only possible when the river is 15 MG and above. Stay river right down to Memphis and you will be able to jump behind Lower Brandywine, Redman and Loosahatchie Bars, for a fantastic glimpse of the beauty and wildlife of the back channel, as well as the shade afforded by tall trees along the narrow channels, the protection from the wind on a windy day, and from severe storms on a stormy day. Warning: if you go back channel Loosahatchie Bar and intend to make a landing in the Mud Island Memphis Harbor, you will have a to execute a high pressure crossing that will require a combination of a long hard paddle and big river know-how.
River Left Behind Hickman (18.2 miles) Possible above 15G, but best done above 20MG. Stay river left and follow the Tennessee shore downstream along the deep forests of Meeman-Shelby Forest State Park with possible stops on two sand spits with big trees not far behind (see below for more description). Cut into the first of the Hickman Islands and stay back channel six miles behind six islands. Keep river right and cut into the mouth of the Loosahatchie for a short detour, continue downstream past Upper Wastewater Treatment Plant, make a quick detour into the Mouth of the Wolf River, and then continue down following along the shore of Mud Island, under the M Bridge and into the Beale Street Harbor.