Mile 69.0 - 69 - 65.6 RBD Trail of Tears State Park

John Ruskey

20 Apr 2026 � 2 min read

69 - 65.6 RBD Trail of Tears State Park

Once passed Indian Creek Trail of Tears State Park dominates the right bank descending, and it’s one of the most beautiful stretches of river along the entire Middle Mississippi River, with distinctive bluffs and cliff lines running down the west bank, if you paddle close to the right bank descending the cliff lines are sometimes eclipsed by tall trees and deep ravines full of lush vegetation, and the piles of rip-rap and gravelly train sidings. Tall limestone & chert bluffs, some towering 100 feet or more above the river’s surface, sliced by deep ravines which drop at precipitous angles from the plateaus above, and are topped with a delightful woodlands mix of hickories, buckeyes, oaks, sycamores, beeches, eastern red cedars and short-leaf pines.

The bluffs here are haunted with the ghosts of dozens of souls lost in this treacherous crossing of the icy Mississippi during the treacherous winter of 1838-1839. I personally have heard deep drum beats emanating up the river while camped on Hanging Dog Island, across from Teatable Bluff. I know you are rolling eyes now and and saying that I was hearing things. Maybe so, but what about the other seven people with me at camp that night at sunset who heard the same? The Mississippi was the Freedom Trail for slaves following the Underground Railroad, and for Huck and Jim following the river downstream. But it was the incarceration trail for others. Thousands of Cherokee crossed the southeast in a tragic forced exodus following a long arc from Appalachia to the Oklahoma Indian Territory the years of 1838/39. Nine of the 13 bands of Cherokee followed this route. Of the estimated 16,000 who started the 600 mile long trail only 12,000 arrived.

Long distance paddlers in their focus on getting down the river sometimes miss the good stuff along the banks that require a landing and a “walk through the woods.” Most will spend a couple of days in St. Louis and then rush on to the next big city downstream, Memphis, with a short stop for water & replenishment somewhere along the way, like Chester or Cairo or New Madrid, and then paddle hard for the next place. Why not spend a few extra hours, or even better a day or two, and smell the roses? The best way to approach the Mississippi is as the enjoyment of “being there,” not “getting there.” One of the must-sees is Trail of Tears State Park. You might not get another chance like this, and the experience will vastly increase your appreciation and understanding of the big river you are paddling. Pull off the river at or near the boat ramp. You might want to set up camp here. There are hot showers, laundry service and campground WIFI. Paddler’s heaven, right? Hide your vessel if just staying for a couple of hours. Walk up bank and start hiking. You can follow the main road up to the visitor’s center

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