Intro: Vicksburg to Baton Rouge:
Intro: Vicksburg to Baton Rouge:
Welcome to the 2014 update to the Rivergator: Paddlers Guide to the Lower Mississippi River!
This section describes the big river as it flows through the Lower Delta, Vicksburg to Baton Rouge, 208 miles of remote wild river with very few landings and lots of deep woods, ever larger and larger loopy-loops of river, and giant islands commanding the channel which split the big river into its many lacerated chutes and alternate routes. Spanish moss draped cypress palmetto bottom forests and magnolia vine-draped hillsides are gothic reminders that you are descending into the sub-tropics. This is the homeland of great native societies as honored at Grand Village of the Natchez and Poverty Point Historic Site, and was the superhighway of the Quapaw, the Houma, the Tunica, the Natchez and all of the other great pre-Columbian civilizations. The Atchafalaya splits off below Fort Adams to join the Red and Ouachita Rivers with one third of the daily average flow of the Mississippi, providing an alternate route for ocean-going paddlers. The river here curves through extensive Louisiana bottomland hardwood forests with striking prominences of Loess Bluffs to the east at Vicksburg, Grand Gulf, Bondurant, Natchez, Fort Adams, Angola, Port Hudson and Baton Rouge. Fantastically rich back channels abound during higher water levels following ancient braided channels in and out of chutes, parallel drainages, tributaries and oxbow lakes notably at Yucatan, Rodney, Old River/Vidalia, Glasscock, Lake Mary, Raccouri, Profit Island and Devil’s Swamp. During low water the sandbars grow exponentially to become the size of ocean beaches and are important habitat for waders and waterfowl of all types including wood storks, anhinga and the roseate spoonbill. The interior least tern has successfully recovered and is being delisted as an endangered species because of these healthy sandbar habitats, while endangered pallid sturgeon are recovering their numbers in the back channels, many of which have been re-opened through the LMRCC notching project. Spectacular birding is found at St. Catherine Creek NWR, and the North American co-champion bald cypress can be seen below the Tunica Hills on Cat Island NWR. More than anywhere else along the Lower Mississippi the feeling of the ancient, endless, brooding, bottomland hardwood jungle pervades along this section of river and makes for safari-like adventures for the few who brave it in human-powered vessel. Wild boars overrun many of the islands and alligators abound in all tributaries and slow-running channels. Invasive silver carp leap over the bow of your canoe, and slap your shoulder while you slap the water with your kayak blade in terror of their surprising antics.
Vicksburg marks a significant change of geography for the Lower Mississippi River paddler. Vicksburg heralds the end of the Mississippi Delta and the beginning of the Mississippi Loess Bluffs. From here down to Baton Rouge there are no continuous levees on the East side of the river because of the high ground created by the bluffs, which approach the river and then retreat along various tributaries like Bayou Pierre, Coles Creek and the Big Black River. The Yazoo-Mississippi Delta technically ends at the mouth of the Yazoo River, also known as “the River of Death.” This junction also marks the first left bank tributary since the Wolf River (and Nonconnah Creek) in Memphis, 300 miles upstream!
The Atchafalaya River: Best Route to the Gulf
The 150 mile long Atchafalaya River makes for an enticing alternative for paddlers who want to avoid the heavy industry awaiting them below Baton Rouge. Imagine paddling down the richest and largest river swamp in North America as opposed to paddling down the busiest and largest inland port in the world, simultaneously the most dangerous stretch of river in the greater Mississippi Valley. Unless you are dead-set committed to the traditional Mississippi route, most paddlers would do best to take the Atchafalaya route. Compare the two below, as preparation for which Gulf outlet you should take for the completion of your expedition.
Atchafalaya River Route:
Paddlers can enter the Atchafalaya Canal right bank descending above Shreve’s Bar at mile 304 through the Old River Lock and Dam. The Atchafalaya is a distributary of the Mississippi and Red Rivers. One third of the average daily flow of the Mississippi passes down the Atchafalaya, which makes it the shortest big river in America. At nearly one-million acres, the Atchafalaya Basin is North America’s largest riverine swamp. It contains monstrous ecosystems of marshland, bottomland forests, lakes, bayous, and estuaries. The Atchafalaya (Native American for Long River) offers a baseline for big river health and ecosystem vitality. The Atchafalaya Basin is a key estuary for nesting, breeding, and migration of 250 bird species, 60 species of reptiles & amphibians, and it is also the life-support system for close to 100 species of fish. One of the most profound aspects of the Atchafalaya River is its ability to improve water quality as the river runs its course to the Gulf. (Its muddy deltas are examples of how the Mississippi River should be working below New Orleans, but isn’t because the Mississippi River water is not allowed to filter through the brackish wetlands, having been cut off by levees and canals). The disappearing coast of Louisiana is being saved along one of the Atchafalaya distributaries, called Wax Lake. The Wax Lake channel is creating a totally new delta as the sediments of a nation fall out of the muddy flow and congeal to form fresh land.
Mississippi River Route:
On the other hand, staying on the Mississippi below Baton Rouge you will encounter very dangerous river conditions through New Orleans and Venice including poor campsites with toxic air and water conditions. You will have to paddle several hundred miles of choppy crowded water sharing the main channel with sea-going freighters, cargo boats, re-supply vessels, and endless fields of barges as they fleet up for the long distance journey back up the river. Commonly known as “Chemical Corridor,” some paddlers have gotten sick within this stretch when they ended up downwind of the wrong smokestack. You will be camping next to refineries, chemical plants, plastics manufacturing, and lots of coal-fired power plants. More toxins are dumped in the river here than any other piece of river in America. No more remote camping, no more swimming, no more quiet sections of river teeming with wildlife. This is a section of the Mississippi you paddle just to get through it.
Go to the Atchafalaya and the Old River Control Structure sections in the Rivergator for more description of the two routes, their respective lengths, and other aspects, to help you make your best choice.
Mississippi River Maps & Mileage
For best navigation, use the US Army Corps of Engineers 2007 Maps of the Lower Mississippi River, which can be viewed or downloaded from the following website: http://www.mvm.usace.army.mil/Missions/Navigation/RiverNavigationCharts.aspx Mileage refers to the number of miles above the Gulf of Mexico (at the Head of Passes). This section of river begins at mile 437 and ends at 229, hence it is approximately 208 miles on the Mississippi River.
River Speed and Trip Duration
The Lower Mississippi River averages 3 mph at low water, 5 at medium water, and 7 at high water. An average paddler can make 2-3 mph. Making adjustments for wind speed, stops along the way, and any alternate exploration, you can use the above to roughly estimate your time of travel on the big river. The last unknown factor is towboats. You might lose time due to necessary waits for passing tows. Never try to outrun a tow, and never paddle across their line of travel.
Services for Lower Mississippi River Paddlers
Vicksburg to St. Francisville:
Fortunately for paddlers on this stretch of river, you have the nearby presence of big river guide Adam Elliott. Adam is based in Natchez at the Quapaw Canoe Company Natchez Outpost, and provides expert services for anyone paddling through this entire region, including guiding and outfitting, meals and shuttle. Call Adam 601-807-5382 or send an email adam.elliott@island63.com, or go to www.island63.com and click on the Natchez section for more info. Adam can meet you just about anywhere in between Vicksburg and Baton Rouge, and answer your questions and provide expert big river guiding (as well as shuttles, or equipment) with a smile and endless stories about the ever fascinating, mysterious big river.
St. Francisville to Baton Rouge:
For shuttles, resupplies, parking your vehicle, and logistics on the Lower Mississippi River, contact Baton Rouge natives Paul or Michael Orr. While doubling as the Riverkeepers for the bottom end of the biggest river in North America, these two good hearted gentlemen have been providing support services for decades on the Lower Mississippi River, and are the experts on the stretch downstream from St. Francisville to the Gulf of Mexico. Contact Paul Orr: paul@lmrk.org (225) 300-3902, Michael Orr michael@leanweb.org (225) 803-2999.
Services for Paddlers in LMR Tributaries
Bayou Teche Experience: While not connected at present to the Lower Miss, Bayou Teche is an ancient outlet of the big river, and is serviced by the cool dudes at Bayou Teche Experience. Contact Cory or Ingo Werk, Bayou Teche Experience, 317 E Bridge St, Breaux Bridge LA 70517, 337.366.0337 info@bayoutecheexperience.com.
Bayou Sara kayak Rental: Andy Green specializes in kayak fishing on this small tributary out of nearby St. Francisville, LA, but he can also provide support for long-distance paddlers on the big river. For shuttling, kayak fishing/guiding, outfitting, and rentals call Bayou Sara Kayak Rental, 225-202-8822, or email andrew_green83@yahoo.com.
Pack & Paddle: Louisiana’s respected outfitter organizes paddling trips around the Atchafalaya Basin, and the bayous of South Louisiana. Excellent source for camping gear and paddling equipment from the heart of the Zydeco country. 601 East Pinhook Road, Lafayette, LA 7050, (337) 232-5854, http://packpaddle.com/
Can you drink the water?
In 1924 Walter and Sissy Anderson paddled the Ohio River into the Mississippi, and continued on downstream bound for the Gulf like so many expeditions still running the big river. Walter regularly dipped his cup in the river for a drink and declared it the “best tasting water he’d ever drunk...” Things on the river were bad back then. The industrial age in full upswing and no oversight on what you could dump in the river, or in the air. But Walter was a young Mississippi artist intent on experiencing nature one on one, as recorded in his incredible artistic tome. He didn’t boil the water. A month into their journey, somewhere above Greenville, Walter contracted dysentery and he and Sissy had to abandon the river. Fortunately since the days of Walter Anderson the Mississippi River has gotten cleaner. The 1972 Clean Water Act led to decades of remedial house cleaning for all of the industry, agriculture, and sewer systems along the river. Anyone who was dumping anything in the river had to comply, or face the severe consequences from the EPA.
Introduction: Leaving Vicksburg
Leave from the landing at the foot of Clay Street and float out of downtown Vicksburg on the river that drains the Mississippi Delta, the Yazoo “the River of Death.” Enter the main channel of the Mississippi with the best views you’ll ever have of the I-20 Bridge and the scenery around Centennial Bend. Unparalleled views of the Vicksburg Bluffs, the Bluffs at LeTorneau, Grand Gulf Bluff and the islands and back channels along the way including Sargent Point, Togo Island, and the mysterious mouth of the Big Black River. Sweeping views of Grand Gulf Nuclear Power Plant. Float past ecologically-diverse Yucatan Lake, a rich habitat for everything from songbirds to alligators! Paddle around Hardscrabble Bend past the mouth of Bayou Pierre and Civil War site Bondurant (Petit Gulf Hills), and continue downstream in the strong current of the Mississippi as it winds between islands and sandbars, back channels and bayous (accessible depending on river level). Below Waterproof, Louisiana, the river meanders along with spectacular views of the Natchez Bluffs, an ever-changing scene of unending skies, jungle forests, Victorian mansions and moody riverscapes.
Vicksburg Gauge (VG)
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/lmrfc/?n=lmrfc-mississippiandohioriverforecast
Water levels according to the Vicksburg Gauge
Low Water = 0 to 20 VG
Medium Water = 20 to 33 VG
High Water = 33 to 43 VGVG
Flood Stage = 43 VG and above
VG = Vicksburg Gauge
Flood Stage Warning: above 43 VG paddlers are advised to stay off the river. Limited access. Most landings and approach roads will be underwater. Most islands will be gone. No easy camping. All sandbars will be covered. Fast waters with many hazards. All islands and landings will be surrounded by flooded forests full of snags, strainers, sawyers and all other dangerous conditions associated with floodwater moving through trees. Docks, wharves, dikes and any other man-made objects will create strong whirlpools, violent boils, and fast eddies. Towboats will create large waves. The Rivergator will not describe the river and its islands at any levels above flood stage.